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Tutto Italiano
Take an armchair tour of Italy … learn about its history, culture, and food … read fascinating facts about Italy, Italians, and Italian-Americans … visit some of the most incredibly beautiful places in the world. Published bi-monthly, Tutto Italiano offers short articles and links to websites to educate and enlighten readers on everything Italian. To subscribe send your e-mail address to jtm@jtmancuso.com with Tutto Italiano as the subject.
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From Tutto Italiano, September 2023
When   Caterina   de’   Medici   and   Prince   Henry,   Duke   of   Orléans   married   in   1533   –   through   an   arrangement   by   Pope   Clement VII,   a   distant   Medici   relative   –   both   were   in   their   teens.   Clement’s   pact   with   Henry’s   father,   King   Francis   I,   blended   the illustrious   Florentine   Medici   family   with   French   royalty.   Although   not   anticipated,   Henry   became   King   of   France   in   1547, establishing Caterina as Queen of France. Caterina’s   influence   on   French   culture   began   years   before   she   became   Queen.   When   she   arrived   in   France   to   marry   Henry, she   brought   an   entourage   to   attend   to   her   individual   needs;   among   them   Cosimo   Ruggeri   (or   Ruggieri),   described   as   an alchemist,   astrologer,   adviser,   and   also   a   sorcerer.   It’s   mentioned   that   Ruggeri   “won   a   cooking   prize”   in   a   contest   held   by   the Medici   family,   and   Caterina   was   so   enamored   with   his   dessert,   she   brought   him   with   her   to   France,   and   the   acclaimed creamy frozen dessert was served at the wedding. In   much   earlier   times,   snow   and   ice   were   used   to   cool   drinks   and   later,   sweeteners   and   flavorings   were   added   to   create   a type   of   sorbet.   By   some   accounts,   the   icy   treat   traveled   from   China   and   Eastern   Asia   to   the   Middle   East   and   then   to   Sicily; others   give   credit   to   Marco   Polo   who   returned   to   Venice   from   China   in   the   early   1300s   with   a   recipe   for   a   cold   refreshment. Whether   it   arrived   from   the   north   or   the   south,   by   the   mid-1500s,   the   frozen   concoction   was   a   popular   indulgence   in   the Medici Court. Joining   the   House   of   Medici   at   an   early   age   –   and   after   Caterina   had   moved   to   France   –   Bernardo   Buontalenti   received training   as   a   painter,   sculptor,   and   architect,   acquiring   additional   skills   in   engineering,   mathematics,   pyrotechnics,   stage design,   and   theatrical   productions.   In   1574,   at   43,   he   became   chief   architect   for   the   Medici   Court   and   under   the   rule   of   Grand Duke   Francesco   I,   Buontalenti   transformed   a   reservoir   (or   plant   nursery)   built   for   Boboli   Gardens   into   a   cavern   of   carved   art and sculptures, known as Buontalenti Grotto. Buontalenti’s   numerous   skills   included   developing   methods   for   keeping   snow   and   ice   cold.   In   1559,   for   an   extravagant   event hosted   by   Grand   Duke   Cosimo   I,   Buontalenti   “whipped   up   a   kind   of   frozen   zabaglione   made   with   sweetened   milk,   eggs,   and wine   churned   over   salted   ice.”   The   addition   of   eggs   and   milk   and   the   stirring   process   produced   a   “velvety   texture.”   In   1979,   a gelato   competition   was   held   in   Florence   to   honor   Bernardo   Buontalenti’s   gelato.   The   gelateria   that   won   trademarked   the name   of   the   gelato   egg-cream   flavor   Buontalenti.   The   Talenti   brand   popular   today   borrows   part   of   Buontalenti’s   name,   but   it is an American brand owned by a British conglomerate. Adding   to   the   history   of   gelato,   in   1686   Francesco   Procopio   dei   Coltelli   (known   by   several   other   names)   moved   from   Sicily   to Paris   and   opened   Le   Procope;   the   cafe   is   noted   for   establishing   the   coffee   culture   of   Paris.   It   became   a   meeting   place   for   the literary   elite   and   American   dignitaries,   and   is   renowned   as   the   oldest   restaurant   in   Paris.   Before   Coltelli   moved   to   Paris,   he learned   the   fishing   trade   from   his   father   and   grandfather,   but   his   grandfather   left   him   something   else   –   a   machine   that   turned ingredients   into   gelato.   Before   the   cafe   opened,   the   frozen   treat   was   mostly   prepared   and   served   to   nobility,   but   it   became widely known and available through the cafe. It’s   noted   that   gelato   was   first   served   by   Giovanni   Biasiolo   in   New   York   in   1770,   six   years   before   the   colonies   became   the United   States;   but   it   didn’t   gain   much   popularity   in   America   until   the   1900s.   Market   statistics   for   gelato   are   difficult   to determine,   as   it   is   often   combined   with   other   frozen   dairy   products.   An   analysis   in   2018   reported   the   “gelato   industry   in   the United   States   currently   generates   $2   billion   in   revenues   annually.”   With   shifts   toward   non-dairy   products   and   healthier alternatives,   gelato   has   more   competition;   however,   the   desire   for   a   premium   quality   dessert   prevails.   In   2003,   Carpigiani Gelato   University   was   founded   to   train   and   educate   “gelato   entrepreneurs   ...   chefs   and   pastry   chefs.”   Located   in   Bologna (Emilia-Romagna)   and   with   20   satellite   campuses,   the   University   accommodates   “more   than   4000   students   per   year.”   Online courses are also offered, as well as consultations, success stories, a job center, and training materials. The   University   is   a   division   of   Carpigiani,   a   “market   leader   in   the   production   of   machines   for   gourmet   gelato,”   and   has numerous   academic   collaborations   with   educational   institutions   throughout   Italy.   Carpigiani   headquarters   also   houses   the Gelato Museum, a fully immersible experience with “gelato classes, guided tours, [and] special tasting events.”